Emerald season in Chobe NP & Okavango delta, Botswana March 2023
– Peter Angvarson, Uddevalla
In March 2023, I went on a photography tour to Botswana, led by Henrik Karlsson. Our group of eight people visited two national parks: Chobe and the Okavango Delta. The trip began in Kasane, located by Chobe National Park, where we stayed for three nights. We then flew to the Okavango Delta, where we spent five nights, before returning to Kasane for the final two nights. Chobe is situated in the far north of Botswana, on the border with Namibia. The Chobe River, which forms the boundary between the two countries, shares its name with the park.
On the Chobe River, we used a boat. It was excellent for photography, with rotating seats, each equipped with its own tripod and a gimbal. For me, who usually always shoots with a tripod at home in Sweden, the gimbal was a great advantage. It was also possible to use the boat’s railing as support to get closer to water level, and a soft protective cover could be placed over the railing to prevent the camera gear from scratching.
We went out on the boat while it was still almost dark and returned when it was already fairly dark again. We made very good use of the light, which is one of the advantages of travelling on a photography-focused trip. At midday, we had lunch and rested at the lodge. Before heading out again in the afternoon, we enjoyed afternoon tea.
IMAGES OF BATHING ELEPHANTS
To get the chance to photograph bathing or drinking elephants, we headed out as soon as we saw elephants moving toward the water. Groups with young calves often only drank before quickly returning to the forest. Some herds moved out toward reed beds and islands in the river to feed, giving us more time for photography. The elephants used different techniques to clean their food—when in open water, they would slap vegetation in the water to wash off sediment from the bottom. In dense reeds, they instead swung the plants against their tusks.
On one occasion, a fairly large group of elephants was grazing on an island. Our guide had positioned the boat with the bow up against the shoreline. The elephants came closer and closer, until eventually one stood calmly grazing right in front of the boat, while I was seated in the front row. It was an incredible experience and a moment to remember.
Humans and elephants share an interest in bathing. But after that, we differ significantly. The first thing elephants do after bathing is to cover themselves in dirt again. I believe this is to protect their skin. It creates wonderful photographic opportunities as the elephants throw mud and dust onto themselves using their trunks.
LIONS IN CHOBE NATIONAL PARK
I had no expectations beforehand of seeing lions in Chobe. Luckily, however, a number of lions from a larger pride were resting on the riverbank one evening. It was late in the day, and we waited for them to go down to the water to drink, which a few of them eventually did. Unfortunately, they chose a spot that did not offer any good photographic opportunities.
The following day, we returned to the area where we had seen the lions the evening before. We found some of them a little further downstream, and fortunately they began walking along the riverbank. It was important to be quick when the lions passed through a good opening, and to compose the shot as well as possible. At one point, I was able to use a tree as a compositional element in the image. It struck me that, if I ignored the fact that the vegetation was completely different, the environment was surprisingly similar to a partly overgrown meadow landscape back home in Sweden.
It also became very clear how important a skilled guide is when manoeuvring the boat, and Henrik was excellent at giving clear instructions to our boat driver. This resulted in one photographic opportunity after another as the lions kept moving along the riverbank. In the end, five lions went down to the water and drank at the same time in a beautiful location.
HIPPOPOTAMUSES
It was difficult to get good images of hippos. Most of the time, only eyes and ears were visible above the water surface. When they became suspicious, they would sink beneath the surface and disappear completely. While they were in the water, I waited for moments when they either blew water out through their nostrils or yawned widely with their mouths open.
To get closer to the animals’ level, I removed the camera from the gimbal and used the boat’s railing as support, shooting while kneeling. It required patience and endurance to hold that position in order to get good images. Most attempts were unsuccessful, but on a few occasions I managed to capture something worthwhile. In the image below, I believe the hippo was swinging its tail, creating the beautiful splash in the background.
BIRDS
Along the riverbanks, there were excellent opportunities to photograph many different bird species, both on branches and at the water’s edge. Among others, we saw the black heron, which walks around and periodically spreads its wings over the water, then dips its head beneath them to search for food.
OKAVANGO DELTA
The Okavango is a vast inland delta in Botswana. The water does not reach the sea but instead disperses into the Kalahari Desert.
AFRICAN WILD DOGS
Within the area we visited, there were two packs of wild dogs at the time. We were lucky, as they cover enormous distances and could just as easily have been in a completely different area. A pack’s territory can range from about 50 to 200 km².
During a hunt, the dogs can reach speeds of up to 60 km/h and are highly endurance-driven. They communicate while hunting and regularly pause to check where the rest of the pack is. We followed one pack while they were on a hunt. We had dogs in front of, beside, and behind the vehicle. But suddenly, we lost sight of them. We stopped the car to have something to drink. Out of nowhere, an impala came running and leaping through the tall grass at very high speed, closely followed by a couple of dogs. We quickly jumped back into the vehicle and followed the chase. At times, we could see dogs jumping over the two-metre-high grass. Suddenly, our guide drove off into the grass, and after about 100 metres we saw the pack in a cloud of dust. I couldn’t see the impala until a few minutes later, and by then only the bones were left. Afterwards, I still can’t understand how our guides managed to keep up with the dogs.
One day we also saw a hyena following a pack of wild dogs, likely hoping to steal part of their kill. It could also take down a weakened dog that fell behind. Understandably, the pack did not appreciate the hyena’s presence. Suddenly, a few dogs surrounded it, and the hyena took shelter in tall grass by lowering its rear end—the most vulnerable part—into the vegetation. I did not see the moment when the dogs attacked, but a deep, threatening growl from the hyena made it clear it did not appreciate the situation. Afterwards, the hyena moved away from the pack, passed close to our jeep, and disappeared from sight.
All photos: ©Peter Angvarson
NEW SPECIES TO PHOTOGRAPH
In the Okavango there were two commonly seen antelope species that were new to me: tsessebe and lechwe. The tsessebe is among the fastest antelopes in Africa and can reach speeds of up to 90 km/h.
The lechwe inhabits swampy areas. Its hind legs are proportionally longer than those of other antelopes, helping it move efficiently over marshy terrain. It uses knee-deep water as protection against predators. Its legs are covered in a water-repellent substance that allows it to run fairly quickly even through flooded areas.
TWO LARGE MALE LIONS
Over a couple of days, the guides searched for two impressive male lions without success. However, we saw and photographed many other animals during that time, so it was not wasted even though we did not find the males.
Towards the end of our stay in the Okavango, the two males appeared near the camp. The staff had heard them early in the morning, so the guides knew where to look. It didn’t take long before we found them. They were magnificent, with dark manes, and the early morning light was especially beautiful as the sun had not yet risen very high.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ANIMAL OF THE TRIP
One morning our guide heard alarm calls from animals nearby and immediately understood that a predator was in the area. Suddenly, a leopard emerged from a thicket and walked just a few meters past the jeep. I was so captivated by its beauty that I failed to get good images as it passed. Fortunately, we had more opportunities, and on two occasions it climbed into trees.
SUMMARY: CHOBE NATIONAL PARK AND OKAVANGO
The lodge in Kasane was excellent, and the camp in the Okavango was very remote, giving a wonderful sense of wilderness. The staff were friendly and the food was good. The guides were highly knowledgeable. Overall, I am very satisfied with both the experiences and the images from Chobe and the Okavango.
